Engineering Magazines

In the world of auto mechanics an engine swap is just about the biggest job you can undertake. No matter what kind of car you drive its inevitable that the engine could possibly fail. If your car has very high miles its almost a given. You have a few options if that happens. You can sell your car as is, pay to have a new engine installed, or take the liberty of doing it yourself. The level of difficulty that changing an engine has changed with automotive technology. The newer and more advanced your car is the more technology goes into making the engine work. Back when carburetors were used things were much simpler. Changing an engine basically consisted of disconnecting a few wires, motor mounts, trans mission, radiator hoses, and throttle linkage. The same basic process still applies on modern engines but it just involves a lot more work. There a many more connections, hoses and cables that need removed.

When changing your own engine the basic challenge is to disconnect everything and put it back exactly how you started. As I mentioned in the previous paragraph the age of your car is where the complexity issue comes in to play. Basically it is the same process but, the older the car the easier the process. When undertaking a job of this size you should be sure to have all the needed tools to perform the job properly. Not having the correct tools can lead to damage of parts and a lot of lost time. You can spend more time working rather than looking for the correct tool to perform the task. Overall spending a little money on the right tools can save you a lot time and money in the future. Depending on where you vehicle was made will determine whether you will need metric or standard tools. European and Asian will require all metric tools and almost all domestics will take standard.

When selecting an engine you must be very careful and be completely sure that you have chosen the correct engine. Thats not something you want to find out when installing the new engine. Again, as automotive technology has advanced so have engines. In the past if you could make an engine fit in the engine compartment you could make it work. The electronics of modern cars makes this virtually impossible without major modification. Fuel injected cars are much more complex. They involve electronic controls rather than manual controls. Basically the most important thing to remember is: Do your research. You need to know the exact model, year, and engine displacement of your vehicle.

Once you have obtained a new or used engine the real work begins. Prior to starting you need to purchase all engine fluids to replace once you have completed. Most cars will require the hood to be removed for full access to the engine area. You should mark the bolt position on the hood hinges to make for easy alignment when reinstalling. Drain all your engine fluids, drain coolant, disconnect all wiring, throttle linkages, fuel lines, and cooling hoses. Be sure to remember what you removed and where it came from. Its a good idea to take photos of all areas of the engine compartment. This will give you a good reference for reassembly. Next, remove the bolts from the motor mounts, transmission and exhaust. Once you have made certain that nothing is still attached to the engine you can begin slowly lifting the engine out. Obviously this will require an engine lift and chains. Carefully remove the engine from the engine bay and set it aside.

The installation process is basically a reverse of the removal. Carefully set the engine back into the engine compartment and bolt up the motor mounts, transmission and exhaust. Its a good idea to replace the motor mounts, belts, hoses, plugs and wires in this process. This just allows for much easier access to all of these components. This could save you a lot of time and work in the future. Reconnect the wires, hoses, and linkages. Once everything is reconnected you can move on to replacing all of the fluids. Your coolant will require a complete refill due to to the lack of coolant in the new engine. Once your fluids are replaced check for leaks and double check for loose connections. After everything has been checked and secured your ready to start it up. New engines will require a break in period. This will be detailed in your new engines documentation. You should test drive your car and watch for anything abnormal. When finished test driving check all of your fluids and top them off in needed. If everything goes as planned you should be ready to hit the road again.

This article is not really meant to be a complete guide. Its basically an outline on what is involved in the process. If you are planning on changing your engine yourself you should know what to expect. Its not a process that you want to get partly finished and give up. It is a pretty difficult task that takes time and effort. Its impossible to create one thorough guide due to the fact that almost all auto makes are unique. A good tip is to purchase a complete repair manual for your make of vehicle. There are some great publications for every make of car. You get what you pay for when you by a repair manual. The higher the price, the more thorough manual you will get. You should have a decent amount of mechanical knowledge before attempting this job. If you have any doubts you should probably leave it up to a professional mechanic. Overall be sure that you have the will power, knowledge, tools, and time before taking on a job like this. If you enjoy mechanics this will be a rewarding and educational process.

When spring fever hits, it’s hard to restrain the excitement and urge to get outside and enjoy the outdoors, especially for bikers who have been able to enjoy their favorite pastime during winter. Although you may be anxious to hug the open road on your motorcycle right away, if you take the proper precautions when removing your bike from winter storage, it can save you time and money, as well as increase your safety. Use these helpful hints when preparing your motorcycle for your summer adventures:

Inspect your fuel tank – Basem Wasef, an expert author on motorcycle topics for About.com, provides some great insight into preparing your motorcycle for summer riding. Wasef recommends that you inspect your fuel tank by opening the cap and determining whether the fuel is clean or not. If you notice any decay or buildup of residue, drain the tank, and then clean the carburetor and fuel lines before running the engine.

Kevin Crockett, an expert author for Ezine.com and motorcycle enthusiast confirms the inherent risk that old fuel can cause by claiming, “old fuel can cause your fuel lines and carburetor to clog from gum.” He also recommends checking the tank for rust. “If the tank has rusted, you will need to clean and seal it to prevent flakes of rust from clogging the carburetor jets.”

Finish this step by adding a fresh tank of fuel before you ride your motorcycle.

Change your fluids – Drain old engine oil, replace the filter, and then replenish the engine with new oil before you ride your motorcycle this summer. Other fluids you need to check include transmission fluid, brake fluid and coolant.

Lubricate cylinders – Wasef claims that by removing the spark plugs and pouring two tablespoons of oil into the spark plug ports, you can lubricate the top portion of the cylinder walls. This can be useful if you failed to spray fogging oil on the top of the cylinder when you prepared your motorcycle for winter storage. Examine the chain and lubricate it, if necessary.

Charge your battery – Inspect the battery leads for corrosion. Wasef advises topping off each battery cell with distilled water before charging. Make certain the battery is fully charged before going on your first motorcycle ride. Otherwise, you run the risk of becoming stranded because of a depleted battery.

Inflate your tires and shocks – Inspect the tires for hairline cracks, bubbles, weak spots or stress marks and address each issue separately. Inflate each tire to the specified quantity of air pressure. Continue by inspecting the shocks. Give the kickstand a few trial kicks, and lubricate it if uncooperative.

Wash and wax your motorcycle – Thoroughly clean the exterior of your motorcycle using a gentle cloth, and then protect it with a thin coat of wax.

Use a safety checklist – The Motorcycle Safety Foundation offers a free safety checklist that you should use every time you ride. The T-CLOCS checklist, which stands for tires and wheels, controls, lights, oil, chassis and stands, covers every critical safety aspect on your motorcycle.

Finally, don’t get caught in the rain without your rain gear! Protect yourself and your motorcycle against theft, damage from collision, vandalism and more with affordable motorcycle insurance. Nationwide can tailor a motorcycle insurance policy to fit your unique needs, even if you have a custom bike. Contact an expert Nationwide agent today for your free quote, and ask how you can qualify for an auto insurance discount when you choose to insure your motorcycle with Nationwide, too.

A decade ago motorcycles had speed, looks, and style. They have certainly improved with each passing year. Year after year motorcycle manufacturers get more innovative, produce faster, lighter and more comfortable motorcycles, and learn what works and what doesn’t. What are the favorites from 2007?

- Yamaha V Star 1300 Tourer.

These motorcycles have a V2 engine with an electric starter and a liquid cooling system. The seat was 28.1 inches and the dry weight was 668 pounds. It was made with a double cradle frame and a telescopic fork front suspension with a swingarm rear suspension. These motorcycles had single disc rear brakes and double disc front brakes. They have a fuel capacity of 4.88 gallons.

- BMW R1200GS

These motorcycles have a two cylinder boxer engine. They also have an electronic fuel injection with an electric starter. These motorcycles had oil and air cooled engines and a 6-speed gearbox. At 438 pounds, they were meant for speed. These off road motorcycles came in desert yellow metallic, rock red metallic, ocean blue metallic, or granite gray metallic. Though the fuel capacity is a whopping 5.28 gallons, the consumption is 1.45 gallons for every 6.2 miles.

- Yamaha WR 450 F

These are also off road motorcycles. They have a single cylinder engine, with a liquid cooling system. At just 246 pounds, it is nearly two-thirds the weight of the BMW R1200GS motorcycles. The front suspension is a telescopic fork, the rear a swingarm. The fuel capacity on these motorcycles is a mere 2.10 gallons. These motorcycles had single disc brake systems for both front and rear.

- Yamaha FZ1 Fazer

These naked motorcycles had in line four engines with an electric starter. They also had a liquid cooling system, a final drive chain transmission, and digital ignition. Like the BMW R1200GS, these Yamaha motorcycles weighed 438 pounds. The frame was aluminum die cast and the front suspension was telescopic upside down forks. The rear a swingarm suspension. These motorcycles had double disc front brakes and single disc rear brakes. Fuel capacity on these motorcycles is 4.76 gallons.

- Harley Davidson VRSCX

These custom or cruiser motorcycles have a V2 engine. They have an electronic sequential port fuel injection system and liquid cooling system. The seat is a mere 27.1 inches high and the weight 637 pounds. These motorcycles are 5-speed with a final drive belt transmission. The front and rear brakes are both single disc four piston. These motorcycles came in two tone mirage orange pearl or brilliant silver pearl. It has a 5 gallon fuel capacity.

- Victory Vegas Jackpot

Like the Harley Davidson VRSCX, these motorcycles are also custom or cruiser motorcycles. With a V2 engine, an air cooling system, and final drive belt transmission, it has many of the same features as the Harley Davidson VRSCX motorcycles. It has an electronic fuel injection system and a 6-speed gearbox. These motorcycles had an even shorter seat at 25.7 inches high. Though the seat was lower, they were a bit heavier weighing 659 pounds. The fuel capacity was 4.5 gallons and colors included black, orange crush, or sunset red.

Motorcycles are as equally deserving of high-quality lubricants as automobiles.  In fact, many motorcycle engines operate at up to 10 000 revolutions per minute – almost double that of a typical motor in a passenger car.  At these types of speeds, the stresses in an engine are extremely high, and it is important to choose the right oil to protect internal components.

Synthetic motorcycle oil can really go a long way towards protecting your engine, chain case and transmission.  Since most motorcycles are pleasure vehicles that are not driven every day, or not usually driven for extended periods, the amount of time a bike spends parked means that motorcycles are particularly prone to rust issues resulting from storage.  Humid conditions can also accelerate the formation of rust, leading to corrosion in the engine and on the chain.  Many people assume that since their engine and chain are oiled that they are protected against this type of damage, but in order for an oil to provide maximum protection against corrosion, it must contain special additives which are designed to coat and protect at all times.  Synthetic motorcycle oil is specifically formulated with these additives.

Aside from the stress of high-engine rpm’s, the most damage done to a typical motorcycle engine is during cold startup.  When a bike’s engine has been sitting overnight, all of the engine oil drains down out of the motor and into the oil pan.  This means that for a few crucial moments on startup, the engine is rotating without any protection from oil.  Of course, engine builders realize this and all motors are designed to achieve necessary oil pressure and coverage almost immediately after ignition.  However, the type of oil being used can play a significant role in terms of how fast that actually occurs.  Synthetic motorcycle oil is less prone to reduced viscosity in low temperatures, meaning that it does not thicken up and flow less while cold.  This allows it to move faster through your motor on start-up and begin protecting engine components before standard motor oil would be able to achieve optimal viscosity.

When choosing a motorcycle lubricant, each of these issues needs to be considered.  When parking a bike for the week after a weekend of hard riding, the peace of mind that everything will be ready to go when you hit the starter next  Friday is priceless.  Synthetic oil is the key to getting the maximum life and pleasure out of a motorcycle.

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