Engineering Magazines

Restoring a classic car back into its elegant shape is just the beginning of your hard work. In order to retain the value of the car and to keep it in proper shape, you need to engage in maintenance work.

Maintenance is the part that’s most often overlooked by classic car owners. Some may think that cleaning and detailing a car is as simple as washing it and waxing away. The truth is, improper practices might lead to a degradation of your car. In order to avoid that, just read and keep in mind this very simple guide to maintaining your classic.

1. Do keep a schedule for maintenance work. You don’t need to do it everyday, since it might take up a lot of time. Once a week will be fine for light maintenance like surface-cleaning the exterior, and twice or once a month for vacuuming, applying wax, polishing, and cleaning your engine.

2. Do wash your car first. If you apply polishers or wax on a dusted car, there’s a good chance that you’ll ruin the paint. Use great cleaning products that wash and catch dirt and dust, while still being pH-balanced.

3. Don’t air-dry the classic car. If you air-dry the car, you will find yourself in a bigger mess than what you possibly have started with. Water-spots will form. Use cotton detailing cloths and wipe off the excess water. These cloths are non-abrasive, and could soak up water real good.

4. Don’t use silicone-based protectants when cleaning the rubber and vinyl of the interior. Silicone-based protectants leave oily residues which serves as a magnet to dust. Use water-based protectants instead.

5. Do clean every inch of your interior, even the vents. Use a small brush specialized for cleaning the small parts of the car. Any other brush will just leave hairs behind, and could probably clog up a vent. And don’t forget the floor mats–shake them off and vacuum-clean them.

6. Don’t use polishers unless the paint won’t shine even with all the cleaning. Polishers work by ‘scraping’ off the surface paint, thus revealing a new layer. If you use it too often, the paint will thin down too much.

7. Do wax the car, especially after polishing. Wax protects your classic car’s paint. What would be better is if you apply a paint sealant first, and apply car wax after. This will protect your car for a good two months at the least, and if your sealant is a good one, maybe even up to six months. (But of course, you still need to clean your car.)

8. Do clean your engine. Degrease the engine first with a good engine degreaser, and wash it using a specialized engine brush and cleaning formulations. Dry your engine afterwards, and apply wax and protectants.

9. Do clean the glass last. This is to avoid re-contaminating it when cleaning the other parts of the classic car. Look for cleaners which are free from ammonia. Household glass cleaners are a big no-no. They contain ammonia, which dries out leather, plastic, and vinyl. Not too good for the other parts of your car, or the glass itself especially if it’s tinted.

10. Don’t clean your car while it’s still hot. Make sure that the engine is cool, and the paint has not been exposed in the sun for too long. Cleaning a hot car will only be more damaging.

11. And finally, do use a properly fitted car cover to protect it from weather effects and dust. An enclosed garage is not enough. Car covers will make your paint last longer, as well as keep dust and bugs away. It will save you much time, as you won’t need to clean your car as frequently.

Maintenance is a lot of hard work, but it really pays off. Follow these simple maintenance tips for your classic car, and you will surely have a dazzlin’ and shinin’ ride.

I am going to start this article with an obvious cliché that says that the car is one of the most important and useful inventions of all times by far, in the whole history of humankind.

Yet, getting over this aspect of the problem we land on this: how important is the maintenance to a car (owner). This is a very suitable question because there are many people that would rather buy an expensive car and not to make those indispensable maintenance changes that simply have to be done at some point, or simply there are people that do not take care of their cars but only when they do not seem to work at all anymore.

Yet, no matter if we are discussing about a car as a personal asset, a car as a public transportation mean it is suggested to avoid different difficulties that may appear when owning a car.

Try not to be one of those owners rather indifferent to their cars that simply start the car, drive and then park it. Not knowing what may be wrong with your car or how it works it makes it impossible to maintain it in a perfect condition.

Do not think of keeping your car in a perfect condition as another way to lose money – think of if you keep it in a perfect condition you will get to sell the car at a great price in a few years.

Think if you really afford not to pay the attention, you should to your car, and go for learning how to take care of it. Even if you do not know basic things about cars such as how to do a rudimentary check of your car engine, or how to check your engine oil level, the spark plug change (if it may be the case) or even the windscreen wiper change it does mean you have to worry.

All these can be learnt very easily and the Internet is full useful advice on this subject. Another important thing you should learn (if you do not already know, of course) is how to take care of your car during winter months when winter tires are required and sometimes even chains. I have listed below a few basics when it comes to owning and maintaining a car.

First of all, you will need to know how to buy a new car, what values you should look for and how to spot possible problems. This will take just a few hours because all you have to do is check car guides and see a few aspects and their meaning.

Second, assuming you do not want to buy a new car, or simply want to buy a used one too, you should know how to buy a used car and not be scammed. This way you will know how to sell it yourself in the future and obtain a good price for it.

Third, you will need to prepare some kind of a schedule based on which you will do a routine check-up. This will avoid any serious problems in the future.

Fourth, something very important is to how to change a tire because there are many people who simply do now know what to do.

And last, but not least you will need to know when the battery is flat and how you can either replace it or recharge it.

Of course, aside from these, there are a few other general aspects that you should note, but these will give you a great start.

With the long cold days of winter about to start, you may be thinking that with nobody looking to travel long distances now is the time that both you and the car can rest. Guess again! Winter requires as much and perhaps even more car care than summer time because winter could just worsen whatever technical problem your car was showing in summer. The following tips will show you how to avoid some common winter problems.

Engine

Note down problems like stalling or difficult starts, less power, rough idling and try to get your hands dirty and fix them. Else, get a technician at a repair shop to look at them. These problems might well have existed during summer but winter always tends to make them worse.

Oil

It is important that during winter times, you use oil that can handle the cold weather and manage to flow quickly to critical engine parts, even during severe winter conditions. The frequency of oil changes will depend on the kind of driving you do in the winter – the Owner’s Manual will suggest to you how often you need to change the oil for various driving types. Usually it is suggested that oil be changed every 3-5,000 miles.

Battery

It is again important to check on the battery. The battery’s power comes down significantly in severe cold weather. This is made worse in older batteries. They tend to work fine in summer but fail as soon as the temperature drops. It is therefore essential that a technician check your battery, especially if it is at least four years old. Of course, despite all this it is better to be prepared at all times, with a set of good jumper cables. It might also be a good idea to have a portable power pack in the car, which can again be used in emergencies.

Heater/Defroster

A properly working heater/defroster not only helps passengers stay comfortable but also helps the driver’s visibility, as to drive safely you need to be able to see clearly through the windshield. Keeping a full gas tank helps in being ready but also reduces the chances of any moisture forming in the lines that carry the fuel, which can freeze up and cause problems.

Tire Care

Maintaining proper inflation in tires during winter is also essential. During cold weather, air contracts and so air in the tires also contracts. Highly inflated tires will increase the wear and tear on tires and also increase the fuel consumption. On the other hand, under inflated tires will just reduce traction. You could also consider going in for special tires, which are designed to grip slippery roads when snow and ice can be a problem.

Lights and Wipers

Always make sure that lights are inspected regularly to ensure that bulbs can be lit and headlights be aimed properly. Also, even wiper blades have to be taken care of. Replace them regularly and even consider special snow blades if you are going to be driving in severe weather.

Warm Up

During winter, when you start the engine, just wait for a few seconds so that a proper flow of oil has been started and there is adequate lubrication before driving off. However, waiting for too long is also not good, as that will just waste gas.

Take care of your car for the winter and your car will ensure your safety even during the worst of winter.

 

 

To keep your car looking good and performing well, OzFreeOnline offers some simple guidelines that will give you all the information you need to know. Each week we will offer you some excellent suggestions in taking optimum care of your car.

 

UNDER THE BONNET

 

Do you know your way around under the hood of your car? While not as critical as it used to be, periodically checking under the hood can head off problems before they become costly. Today, with self-service gas stations everywhere, often the only way you will get it done is for you to do it yourself.

 

Start by reading your car owner’s manual or search for your car models manual on line if you bought a used automobile which most of the times doesn’t have manuals for the drivers for them. There will always be a section on under bonnet checks. A word about safety though: read the safety warnings in your owner’s manual and any safety warning stickers under the hood. Also, it’s advisable that you keep a pair of old gloves and a roll of paper towels in the boot.

 

If the engine has been running for any length of time, there are areas under the hood that can be very hot. Except for checking transmission fluid level, all checks should be done while the engine is turned off. If the engine is running, do not put your hands near any belts or fans.

 

BATTERY

 

Most batteries today are “maintenance free”, which simply means that you can’t check the water level. This doesn’t mean however, that there is nothing to check. The main things to check are the top of the battery, which should be clean and dry, and the terminal connections, which should be clean and tight. If the top of the battery continuously becomes damp or corroded soon after cleaning, then have the charging system and battery checked by your mechanic. If by chance you are considering to buy used cars from dealers, and know nothing about batteries, you might wanna check it by looking and inspecting the connection wires. If it is corroded (it is rusty or white chemicals are forming), you can ask the used car dealer to clean it or change the battery to save you more money.

 

Happy motoring – and remember the best source to buy a used car today is OzFreeOnline.com – Cars Section. To sell your car, you can use our free car listings – We promise, it’ll cost you nothing.

 

To keep your car looking good and performing well, OzFreeOnline offers you suggestions on checking the Coolant (Antifreeze) level as well as the engine oil level.

 

COOLANT (ANTIFREEZE) LEVEL

 

Never open the radiator of a car that has just been running. The cooling system of a car is under high pressure with fluid that is usually hotter than boiling water. Look for the cooling system reserve tank, somewhere near the radiator. It is usually translucent white so you can see the fluid level without opening it. (Do not confuse it with the windshield washer tank). The reserve tank will have two marks on the side of it. ‘FULL HOT’ and ‘FULL COLD.’ If the level frequently goes below ‘full cold’ after adding fluid, you probably have a leak, which should be checked as soon as possible. Today’s engines are much more susceptible to damage from overheating, so do not neglect this important system. If your car is prone to overheating, you might wanna change your engine coolant or have your radiator checked up. Cars bought from car auctions usually have this problem so you might wanna research the used car value and asking for the cars service and damage/accident history to be aware of this kind of problems. Having an overheating engine on the road could be a very difficult thing to deal with.

 

ENGINE OIL LEVEL

 

An engine cannot run without oil; oil is what prevents serious engine damage or total destruction! To check the oil level, make sure that the engine is turned off, then find the engine oil dipstick and remove it. With a paper towel or rag, wipe off the end of the stick and notice the markings on it. You will usually see a mark for ‘Full’ and another mark for ‘Add’. If you have just acquired a used automobile, it is wise to check the oil immediately to determine if it is required to refill or do an oil change. Clean oil also is best for car engines.

 

Check your owner’s manual to be sure. Push the stick back into the tube until it sets, then immediately pull it out to see the oil level. You should not add oil unless the level is below the ‘Add’ mark and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the ‘Full’ mark. Your main concern with this check is that oil consumption is not rapidly increasing. If it is, take your car to a repair shop as soon as possible and have it checked out. It is acceptable for the oil to be dark as long as you change it at the recommended intervals. However, it should never be foamy and should never have a strong petrol smell. If either of these conditions exists, have it checked out soon. Remember, you can browse sites like OzFreeOnline to give you some tips and advices in properly maintaining your car but it is also advisable to pay a few dollars for an expert periodically to check your car to get it to its best condition.

 

 

It’s that time of year again, the nights are drawing in, the roads are covered with wet leaves and you’re starting to think a canoe would be more practical than a motorcycle right now. It may only be the start of winter, but we’ve already had floods and our first snow. As reluctant as you may be to admit it, it’s probably time to put the motorcycle into hibernation for the winter.

However, before you shut it away in the garage for the next few months, it may be worth taking a little time just making sure its comfy and more importantly, going to be good-to-go as soon as the weather picks up. Here are just a few simple tips to ensure that your motorcycle will be ready to go the second you are.

First up, take it for one last ride. Any niggling noises you’ve been ignoring or anything that doesn’t feel right should be addressed now. Once the motorcycle is warmed up, any condensation from the exhaust will evaporate too. On your way back top up the fuel tank. Half empty tanks are a great place for moisture to build up which coupled with any exposed metal could damage your bike. Once you’re back home, top the engine up with some fuel stabilizer and run the motorcycle for a few minutes to allow it to work its way round, even if your motorcycle doesn’t have carburettors, a fuel stabilizer will stop any compounds from the fuel tank breaking up and damaging your engine.

Changing the oil and filter is very important too; any acid compounds developed by the oil will need to be flushed out. As this oil will need to be drained before you next ride, it doesn’t need to be the most expensive oil on the market. Submerging some of the more sensitive parts of your motorcycle, like the bearings, in oil will help prevent corrosion. Remember that any excess oil has to be drained before starting the engine as too much oil can damage the engine just as much as too little oil. You will also need to top up the antifreeze. If you’re able; drain the float plugs. Alternatively, if a stabilizer is added to the fuel and run through the system this should work just as well. Before you put your motorcycle into storage, you will also need to lube the chain, if left; the chain can corrode and rust. Remember to keep any lubricants away from the breaks or tyres, assuming you want to stop without the aid of a tree next time you try to break. Any other exposed metal is going to need some WD40 to prevent any rust and corrosion.

It may sound obvious, but give the bike a good clean. This will enable you to notice anything out of the ordinary as well as removing any dirt or grime which could damage the motorcycle over the winter months, just remember not to put it away whilst it’s still wet. If there’s anything worth repairing or maintaining this is a great time to get it out of the way, so that in the spring the motorcycle will be ready to go as soon as the weather permits. Chances are with most motorcycles these days everything will be ok, but your motorcycle maybe close to a valve adjustment or something similar and now is a great time to get that done.

Next you’ll have to remove the battery, especially if your motorcycle is going to be left to brave the elements outside all winter. Batteries contain water which can freeze and expand, this can cause the battery to crack and once it melts it can then leak. If you can, leave your battery hooked up to a small charge for the winter. A battery tender will give it just the charge it needs without letting it over charge. If you leave your battery alone to stand in your bike all winter, you’ll have trouble even getting to the shop to buy a new one!

All that’s left now is to find somewhere nice and dry to store you motorcycle. Ideally your bike would prefer to be left in a garage but if that’s not possible try and make sure it’s covered. It is worth bearing in mind though, if its left with a cover outside, condensation could build up and you’ll have a very impressive pile of rust to take on your first ride out in the spring. If you’re going to have to leave your motorcycle outside make sure it’s secure and preferably out of sight. Nothing says challenge like an unattended motorcycle with nothing more than a glorified keychain round it. If you can, leave your motorcycle on a stand as this will take any weight from the suspension.

Well that’s it, time to relegate yourself to the car for the next few months. Next time you’re at a loose end on a bright clear Sunday afternoon, refrain yourself from taking your bike for a quick mid winter spin, you’ll only end up creating condensation in the engine, instead get on with a bit of routine maintenance.